So, you’ve finally decided to rip out that avocado-green fiberglass tub and fix the leaky mess behind your bathroom walls. You’re standing in the plumbing aisle at the big-box store, staring at a wall of shiny copper pipes on one side and what looks like high-end garden hoses on the other. Your DIY confidence is high, but your knowledge of “what won’t flood my basement in three years” is a bit shaky. Believe me, I’ve been there—specifically, I’ve been there at 11:00 PM on a Sunday, covered in gray water, wondering why I thought I could “wing it” with a blowtorch.
Choosing between PEX and copper isn’t just a matter of price; it’s a matter of how much you value your sanity and your weekend. I’ve spent over a decade fixing my own plumbing blunders and helping neighbors do the same. If you want the Pinterest-perfect copper look but have the hand-eye coordination of a caffeinated squirrel, we need to have a serious talk about PEX.
Why DIYers Choose PEX Pipe for Bathroom Plumbing
If I’m being honest, PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) is the greatest gift to the DIY community since the cordless drill. I remember my first major master suite remodel where I insisted on using copper because I wanted to feel like a “real” plumber. Three scorched floor joists and one very singed eyebrow later, I switched to PEX for the guest bath. It was like moving from a typewriter to a MacBook. PEX is flexible, which means you can snake it through wall studs like a noodle rather than cutting and soldering every single time you hit a corner.
The biggest win for PEX is the “forgiveness factor.” When water freezes, it expands. Copper is a rigid diva; it doesn’t expand, it just bursts and ruins your drywall. PEX, however, has some give. It can expand and contract, which has saved my skin more than once during those surprise polar vortexes. It’s also color-coded—red for hot, blue for cold—which sounds insulting to your intelligence until you’re upside down in a crawlspace trying to remember which line goes where.
Installing PEX is mostly about the “crunch.” You use a crimping tool or cinch tool to secure the pipe to the fittings. It’s fast, it’s satisfying, and it doesn’t require an open flame. I’ve found that even a total novice can learn to make a leak-proof PEX connection in about five minutes. If you’re worried about “water hammer” (that annoying banging sound in the walls when you turn off the tap), PEX is naturally quieter because it’s plastic and absorbs the pressure shock better than metal.
One thing to keep in mind, though: PEX is not for outdoor use. If sunlight hits it, the UV rays will break down the plastic faster than a cheap patio chair. I once tried to use a leftover scrap for a temporary outdoor rinse station for my muddy boots. Within a few months, it was as brittle as a cracker. Keep it inside the walls where it belongs, and it’ll likely outlast your mortgage.
Is Copper Pipe Worth the Extra Cost and Effort?
There is a certain segment of the DIY population—usually the ones who own vintage leather-bound tools—who will tell you that copper is the only “right” way to plumb a house. And look, I get it. Copper is the gold standard for a reason. It’s been around forever, it’s incredibly durable, and it has natural antimicrobial properties that PEX just can’t claim. Plus, if you’re doing a high-end remodel where pipes might be exposed, like under a pedestal sink, PEX looks like a cheap straw while copper looks like a piece of industrial art.
The downside? Copper is a massive pain in the neck to install if you aren’t practiced. You have to “sweat” the joints, which is a fancy way of saying you’re melting solder into the gaps using a propane torch. It’s a skill. If you don’t get the pipe perfectly clean and the flux perfectly applied, that joint will leak. I once spent four hours trying to get a single elbow joint under a kitchen sink to stop dripping, only to realize I’d left a tiny bit of water in the line that was keeping the pipe from getting hot enough. I may have kicked a bucket across the room in frustration.
Then there’s the price. Copper is a commodity, and lately, it feels like you need to take out a second mortgage just to buy enough 1/2-inch pipe for a shower valve. When I compare the cost of a 10-foot copper pipe to a 100-foot roll of PEX, the math just doesn’t favor the metal. Unless you have highly acidic water that eats through plastic (rare, but it happens), you’re paying a massive premium for a “prestige” material that will be hidden behind your subway tile anyway.
However, copper is rigid. That sounds like a negative, but it means your shower heads and faucets won’t wiggle. When you secure a copper pipe to a stud, it stays put. PEX can sometimes feel “bouncy” if you don’t use enough support brackets. If you want that rock-solid feel when you turn on your high-pressure rainfall showerhead, using copper for the final few inches of the “stub-out” (the part that comes out of the wall) is a pro move I always recommend.
Comparing PEX vs Copper Installation Tools and Skills
Let’s talk tools, because this is where the budget often goes off the rails. To do copper right, you need a pipe cutter, a deburring tool, flux, lead-free solder, and a torch. You also need a fire extinguisher nearby because, trust me, you will smell something smoldering at some point. It’s a tactile, messy, and rewarding process, but the learning curve is steep. If you’ve never soldered before, don’t make your bathroom remodel your first attempt. Practice on some scraps in the driveway first.
PEX requires a different set of toys. You’ll need a dedicated PEX cutter (which cuts through the stuff like butter) and a crimping tool. The crimp tool is the expensive part—usually between $50 and $100. You can also use “SharkBite” push-to-connect fittings, which require zero tools at all. You just push the pipe into the fitting and… that’s it. While some “old school” plumbers hate them, I’ve found them to be literal lifesavers for quick repairs. Just don’t use them for an entire house; they’re about $10 a pop, and that adds up faster than my late fees at the library.
I’ve found that the “PEX-A” (Expansion) method is actually the best for DIYers who want the highest quality. It uses a tool that stretches the pipe and a sleeve, which then shrinks back down over the fitting to create a permanent bond. The tool is pricey to buy, but most local hardware stores will rent them to you for a few bucks a day. It’s virtually impossible to mess up, which is exactly the kind of insurance I like when I’m working on something that could potentially flood my living room.
If you’re deciding based on time, PEX wins by a landslide. In the time it takes to prep and solder one copper elbow, I can usually run an entire PEX line from the manifold to the toilet. If your bathroom remodel is on a tight deadline—maybe because your spouse is tired of sharing the kid’s bathroom—PEX is the only logical choice. Copper is a marathon; PEX is a sprint.
The Real Talk: What the Pros Don’t Always Tell You
Here is the unvarnished truth: PEX has a “leaching” controversy that comes up in every forum. Some people worry about chemicals from the plastic getting into their drinking water. While the science generally says modern PEX is safe, if you are a “zero-plastic” household, PEX is going to give you anxiety every time you brush your teeth. If that’s you, just bite the bullet and pay for the copper. Peace of mind is worth more than the $300 you’ll save on materials.
On the flip side, copper has its own “hidden” nightmare: pinhole leaks. If you live in an area with certain types of “pitting” corrosion in the water, your expensive copper pipes can develop tiny, needle-sized holes after 10 or 15 years. Finding a pinhole leak behind a tiled shower wall is my personal version of a horror movie. PEX doesn’t corrode, period. It doesn’t care if your water is acidic or full of minerals. In my book, “not corroding” beats “looking shiny” every day of the week.
Another thing to watch out for is rodents. I know, it’s gross. But mice and rats have teeth that never stop growing, and they love to gnaw on things. PEX is soft and apparently quite chewy. I’ve seen more than one “mysterious leak” that turned out to be a squirrel who decided the hot water line was a chew toy. Copper is rodent-proof. If you live in an old farmhouse where the mice have names and a social hierarchy, you might want to stick with metal or be very, very diligent about sealing your rim joists.
Finally, don’t mix and match unless you have to. If your whole house is copper, it’s tempting to just use PEX for the new bathroom. You can do this using transition fittings, and it’s totally fine, but make sure you’re using the right ones. Using a “mickey mouse” fix to join two different materials is where most DIY disasters start. I once saw a guy try to join copper to PEX using nothing but electrical tape and a prayer. Spoilers: the prayer didn’t work.
The Verdict: My “Biased” Recommendation
If you are a normal human being with a budget, a job, and a desire to actually finish your bathroom this year, go with PEX. Specifically, use PEX-B with crimp rings for the main runs, and use a copper “stub-out” elbow where the pipe comes through the wall for the toilet and sink. This gives you the ease of plastic in the walls but the solid, professional look of metal where people can actually see it.
Copper is great for people who have lots of time, a love for traditional craftsmanship, and a burning desire to master the art of the torch. For everyone else? PEX is the hero we deserve.
Parting Wisdom
Whatever you choose, always, always pressure test your lines before you put the drywall back up. Turn the water on, let it sit for 24 hours, and wipe every joint with a dry blue paper towel. If that towel shows even a tiny damp spot, fix it now. Trust me, “it’ll probably be fine” are the famous last words of many a ruined ceiling.
What’s your biggest fear when it comes to DIY plumbing? Are you team “Torch and Solder” or team “Crimp and Go”? Drop your horror stories or questions in the comments below!
